CHARENTE-MARITIME HOLIDAY TRAVELGUIDE with thanks to Brittany Ferries

Charente-Maritime is Poitou Charentes’ coastal department and one of the sunniest areas of France. The dunes and fine sandy beaches backed by pine forests so typical of the Atlantic fringes have long been a favourite holiday destination for the French. Parisians in particular make for the stylish resort island of Ile de Re and the chic boutiques of La Rochelle. The islands Re and Oleron offer the visitor to Charente-Maritime a breath of fresh, clean island air in truly traditional settings. Easily accessed by bridge and viaduct, there are great opportunities here for watersports, horse riding, walking and bird-watching on the nature reserve and salt marshes which also produce the d’Oleron oysters. Small, family friendly resorts abound such as Saint-Palais-Sur-Mer.

Inland, the landscape is dotted with farms, vineyards, water and windmills. History lovers will enjoy the eleventh century church at Talmont-sur-Gironde on the old pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain and the ancient town of Saintes is a must for lovers of art and Romanesque architecture. Visitors to the Forest Museum in the wooded Saintonge area may not be lucky enough to see the elusive genet – a rare wild cat - but back at the coast Royan does have exotic animals to view at its zoo – the second largest in France. Royan is also credited with launching the fashion for sunbathing on its 5 sheltered beaches.

Famous La Rochelle, one of the best natural harbours along the Atlantic coast, has long been a favourite holiday base and is a major sailing centre. It is host each September to the largest floating boat show in Europe – the ‘Grand Pavois’. Take a stroll around La Rochelle’s ancient walled town ending at the old port still guarded by 2 fourteenth century towers. The marina has moorings for 3,500 yachts alongside traditional fishing boats and the waterfront is vibrant with seafood restaurants serving everything from oysters and clams to turbot and sea bass. Do as the locals and start proceedings with a glass of Pineau des Charentes.

Charente-Maritime Places to Visit on Holiday

La Rochelle
The history of La Rochelle, one of the best natural harbours along the Atlantic Coast, has always been linked to the sea. Absorb the maritime culture and architectural heritage of this splendid walled town around the quays of the old harbour guarded by the fourteenth century towers of St Nicholas - has wonderful panoramic views - and the Chain Tower - the chain at its foot was used to close off the harbour at night. A third tower, the Lantern or ‘Four Sergeants’ Tower, was originally built as a lighthouse in the fifteenth century and later used to house prisoners. Many of La Rochelle’s Renaissance and eighteenth century houses were originally owned by wealthy merchants dealing in wine and salt and the arcaded shopping streets - now housing stylish boutiques - were once the venue for traders dealing in goods unloaded from around the world. Today, Port des Minimes has moorings for 3,500 boats, making it Europe’s largest marina on the Atlantic and host to its largest floating annual boat show each September - the ‘Grand Pavois’. This major sailing centre also has a sailing and windsurfing school, boat and jet-ski hire. The waterfront is vibrant with seafood restaurants, serving everything from oysters and clams to turbot and sea bass and the town’s parks and gardens invite you to stroll along river banks and avenues amongst superb trees and brightly coloured flowers. Children will love La Rochelle’s hi-tech Aquarium with over 10,000 marine animals and the town’s museums of automated puppets and models.

Saintes and its Roman Heritage
The market town of Saintes, developed by the Romans in the first century as a cultural and administrative centre, still retains imposing remains of ancient monuments. The town’s Architecture and Heritage Interpretation Centre on place de l’Echevinage is a good introduction. Les Arenas amphitheatre, built into the sides of the valley in 40AD could hold 15,000 spectators and is one of the oldest surviving in France. Germanicus Arch originally stood on the river bridge serving as a gate for the town on the great Roman road from Lyon and bears inscriptions to the Emperor Tiberius and his nephews Germanicus and Drusus. Part of the ‘calderium’ (hot bath) is still visible at the remains of the St-Saloine Thermal Baths. Entrance to these last 2 monuments is free. Notice the changing shape of the rare eleventh century tower which is part of Abbey aux Dames, a convent founded in 1047 and now a cultural centre which hosts a variety of exhibitions and performances including a prestigious music festival. Another medieval building, Eglise Saint-Eutrope, now listed as part of the World Heritage Site ‘Routes of Santiago de Compostela’, is definitely worth a visit for its beautiful carving and special atmosphere in its crypt. Amongst the narrow streets and medieval houses you can also find museums of art, architecture and archaeology. There is a market somewhere in Saintes every day except Monday and the first Monday of the month a huge Grand Fair takes place. Relax on a river cruise along the Charente from Saintes’s port in the town centre or hire a ‘santon’ - electric houseboat - to cruise at your own pace.

Rochefort
Built in the seventeenth century at the mouth of the River Charente as a naval base and arsenal, Rochefort’s history is bound up with ship building and naval expeditions. Find out more at the National Naval Museum, housing scale models of ships and figureheads, and the Naval Medical School with collections of instruments, travel books and naval documents. The Royal Rope Walk ( www.corderie-royale.com), at 373m, is one of the longest buildings in France, and supplied ropes and rigging to the entire French navy. The ‘Garden of Returns’ around the Ropewalk beside the river displays rare and unknown plants brought back from overseas. Rochefort’s Begonia Conservatory has greenhouses containing the world’s largest collection (more than 1,500 species) of the plant brought back from Central America in the seventeenth century and named after the town’s then quartermaster - Michel Begon. Don’t be deterred by the respectably modest exterior of Pierre Loti’s house or you will miss the guided tour of his “drawing rooms of marvels from overseas”. The naval officer and writer born in 1850 was a larger than life character reflected in his exotic and fantastical home décor. Rochefort is home to a transporter bridge, one of the few still operational in Europe. Rochefort is also one of the best known spa towns in France treating rheumatology and phlebology. Find out more on www.eurothermes.com/rochefort/rochefort.asp Contact the local tourist office for details of special interest walks around Rochefort - April to November - and oyster park and marsh tours. Evening sightseeing tours with a guide and musician available each Tuesday at 9.30pm during July and August. Or head down to Port-des-Barques at the mouth of the Charente with its little island, Ile Madame which links to the mainland via a tidal causeway.

St-Jean-d’Angely
Located on the banks of the River Boutonne, Saint-Jean-d’Angely was built on the site of a Roman villa and became a major stopover on the route to Santiago de Compostela. The town is an artist’s dream with cobbled streets and charming medieval timbered houses around the Royal Abbey. The original ninth century Abbey was constructed to house the sacred relic of a skull said to belong to John the Baptist. The present Royal Abbey is now a listed building and European Culture Centre welcoming adults and young people from all over Europe and offering a venue for concerts and drama in the summer. Notable too are the medieval clock tower and Fontaine (fountain) du Pilori. Musee des Cordeliers has sections on the town’s history and pre-history as well as ceramics, furniture and souvenirs from car manufacturer Citroen’s African and Asian expeditions demonstrating their cars’ potentials in the 1920s and 30s. Visit St Jean’s colourful market on Saturday mornings and stop for coffee in one of the lively cafes in its little squares. Stroll along the canal banks and canoe on the River Boutonne.

Royan
Royan was ‘the’ stylish resort in the nineteenth century and is credited with launching the fashion for sunbathing on its 5 sheltered sandy beaches. Safe bathing has made Royan attractive to families and its excellent restaurants, large marina and 2 casinos ensure there is plenty too for just adults to enjoy. Extensive bombing destroyed much of the town in WWII but elegant ‘turn of the century’ houses still survive around boulevard Garnier and the church of Notre Dame, part of the 1950s rebuilding, has a striking interior with modern stained glass to compliment its towering exterior. Take a cruise between April and September to France’s oldest functioning lighthouse, the Phare de Cordouan at the mouth of the Gironde River which was built in 1584. Cyclists can load their bikes on a ferry across to Pointe de Graves and explore the pine-fringed coastal trails in neighbouring Gironde.

Charente-Maritime Geography and Natural Beauty

The Islands of Re, Oleron and Aix
Charente-Maritime’s off-shore islands have a great climate and fresh clean air making them ideal for outdoor activities such as horse riding, walking, watersports and bird-watching.

Exclusive and beautiful, Ile de Re is accessible via a 3km toll bridge from La Rochelle and makes a great venue for a day trip. Discover this epitome of traditional, laid-back France, with pretty villages of green shuttered white cottages, yacht-filled harbours and long beaches of fine sand. Watch flat-bottomed oyster boats set out from St Martin’s harbour. Rent bikes and enjoy 90km of cycle paths winding their way through pine forests, vineyards, nature reserves and salt marshes. Enjoy daily markets and summer festivals of music and the sea. It’s also a great spot for watersports – you could try your hand at kayaking or hire a catamaran or jet ski.

With vineyards and marshes, the larger island of Oleron is more wooded than Re and the mainland bridge is free. Explore the Foret des Saumonards in the north and walk or cycle along pinewood paths behind sand dunes from where you have great views of the oyster beds (this is one of Europe’s biggest producers of oysters) and the offshore Napoleonic Fort Boyard, used as a nineteenth century rock prison. Fine sandy beaches make Oleron ideal for families, with plenty of opportunities for swimming and watersports. Take the guided tourist train around the citadel in the main town of Le Chateau, visit folk and costume museums and the nature reserve and bird sanctuary at Dolus-d’Oleron.

There’s so much for the visitor to enjoy here, from the mimosa which blooms from January to March in the mild climate, the many daily markets, summer festivals and special events, to the World Offshore Jet-ski Championship in June.

Heavily fortified during wars with the English and only 3km long, Ile d’Aix is the smallest of the islands accessed by Inter-Iles ferry. A quiet place to explore on foot or by bicycle. No cars are allowed but there are carriage rides around the island. See Fort Liedot used as a prison in WWI and the museum of Napoleonic memorabilia in the house were the Emperor stayed before surrendering to the British ship Bellerphon in 1815. The whole island is a bird sanctuary and there are guided tours concerning oyster farming and salt production.

Marais Poitevin
In total, the Marais Poitevin covers 100,000 hectares stretching 70km from Niort west to the Atlantic and includes areas of dry and maritime marshland as well as wetland areas. Now a French Regional Park, the shady meadows and waterways, built originally by eleventh century monks around the Sevres Niortaise, is known officially as the Marais Poitevin, but referred to locally as ‘La Venise Verte’ – Green Venice - because of its system of canals, dykes and slow flowing rivers amongst green pastures and poplar trees. Traditionally, farmers would travel between fields in flat bottomed punts, sometimes carrying livestock. Holidaymakers can explore this natural paradise by punt. Take a guide to point out wildlife from eels to egrets and visit Les Oiseaux de Marais Poitevin at St Hilaire-la-Palud. This 7 hectare sanctuary of untamed marshland is home to over 70 species of birds and specific wetland vegetation (open end March to beginning November). Cycle via miles of well marked trails, stopping at pretty marsh villages such as Arcais or Le Vanneau, which hosts a traditional floating market in summer. Find information on the customs and traditions of marsh life, such as poitevin weddings and evening markets, at the visitor centre in Coulon - Maison des Marais Mouilles.

Charente-Maritime Cuisine and Wine

Seafood is an important part of the cuisine of Charente-Maritime as a look at the quayside restaurants of La Rochelle with their menus of sea bass and turbot and Marennes-Oleron oysters will confirm. Look for langoustines from Oleron, caviar from Saint-Fort-sur-Gironde and try local favourite, ‘moules au Pineau’ - mussels cooked with tomatoes, Pineau, garlic and parsley. Early new potatoes from Ile de Re are known for their buttery flavour and salt from Re’s marshes is respected for its high quality. From the Marais come melons, Parthenay beef, eels, white mojhettes beans and red onions from Niort along with small creamy Chabichou goats’ cheese, and desserts and sorbet flavoured with angelica. ‘Broye du Poitou’ is an interesting dessert (literally crushed of Poitou) as it is broken instead of cut to be served. Enjoy your meals with one of the red, white and rose wines from the Thouars area which are similar to those of Anjou, after an aperitif of Pineau (made from mixing sweet, unfermented grape juice with Cognac brandy). Cognac from the vineyards on the sandy soils of Ile de Re is thought by some to have a hint of iodine from the sea in its flavour.

Charente-Maritime Activities

Go to Palmyre Zoo
This is one of the most popular zoos in France. Opened in 1966, it extends over 18 hectares, including 14 landscaped gardens, offering visitors the opportunity to observe over 1600 animals (130 different species) in an environment close to their natural habitat. The average duration of visits is 4 hours. The zoo offers sea lion, parrot and cockatoo shows.

Open all year round. Wheelchair accessible. Free parking. No dogs. Offers places for relaxing and eating inside the park. For more information contact: (00 33) 5 46 22 46 06.

Visit the Aquarium at La Rochelle
The aquarium offers the chance to survey the diversity and beauty of all the oceans of the world. Visitors can see precious and fragile corals, go through a tunnel of jellyfish, pass beneath a powerful wave and encounter several species of shark. On the first floor, there is a tropical atmosphere resembling the mangroves of Florida with shoals of piranhas. There are Caribbean Sea and Indo-Pacific aquariums and an interactive display area. Tel: (00 33) 5 55 46 34 00 00.

Visit the Jardins du Monde, Royan
Visit this park of just over 7 hectares of landscaped gardens and go through one of the largest orchid greenhouses in France. There are bonsai trees, butterflies, a flooded garden, and Mediterranean gardens with an array of magnificent colours and perfumes right in the heart of Royan.

Open 10.00 to 20.00 hrs July and August, 10.00 to 18.00 hrs September to June.

Closed early January to mid-March. For more information visit: www.jardins-du-monde.com

Tel: (00 33) 5 46 38 00 99.

Explore the Caves at Meschers
Meschers is not only an exceptional troglodytique site, it is also a seaside resort and a good harbour for sailing and fishing. The sea caves are located high above the valley and estuary of the Gironde River. The caves also contain the nature museum of the Gironde Estuary. Cave houses formed out of the soft cretaceous limestone or chalk are still used by man today.

Sites open from April to October daily with conducted tours. For more information contact: (00 33) 5 46 90 43 66.

Visit the Church of Ste-Radegonde, Talmont
Located 15km south of Royan, the village of Talmont itself is a delight, with white painted houses and hollyhocks everywhere. The Church of Ste-Radegonde, built in 1094 in a solid Romanesque style with square tower, was a stopping place for pilgrims en route for Compostela where they either set off by sea towards the Bay of Biscay, crossed the Gironde Estuary or by-passed it in the direction of Bordeaux. Set on a rocky promontory overlooking the Gironde with spectacular views from its little cemetery, the church and its beautiful sculptures are a popular tourist attraction. Wait until evening in summer when the visitors have gone to enjoy Ste-Radegonde lit by the setting sun.

Take a Tour of the Oyster Beds at Oleron and Re, Visit the Oyster Museum at St Trojan, Oleron
The oyster beds of Oleron and Re are an essential part of island economy. At Fort Royer in Boyardville on Oleron there are tastings and guided visits in summer (and off season weekends) to a protected area of oyster beds, traditional oyster-men’s huts and botany trails. Details at local information centres and from the ‘Terres Marines’ association. Take a tour of the oyster beds from La Flotte on Ile de Re and enquire locally about oyster farm visits to places like La Retaise near La Courade where you can buy direct. Visit Musee Ostreicole in an oyster fisherman’s cabin at St Trojan-les-Bains on Oleron and the new discovery centre near mainland Marennes on the La Cayenne Channel - full of entertaining information about the role of the oyster. The bridge linking Oleron to the mainland goes over the famous Marennes-Oleron oyster beds. Watch oyster boats laden with their gastronomic delicacies plying back and forth.

Have Fun at the Chateau des Enigmes, Pons
Three hours of mystery and adventure for all the family in the Renaissance chateau and surrounding park. Revisit 1330 on the trail of the Knights Templar. Tel: (00 33) 5 46 91 09 19.